The gate ring latch is used, as the name implies, to securely close the gates
when not in use; it’s a simple latch only (no locking option). When fitting to a
pair of gates, the handle parts of the latch (Shown as A & B) fixes to the
active gate (i.e. the gate without the dropbolt) which you open first for
The parts of the ring gate latch
A – Ring latch handle B – Ring handle C – Spindle – This goes through the gate to connect the Ring
latch handle (A) and the Ring handle (B) D – Keep – This
keeps the latch bar in the correct position. E – Receiver –
Latch sits in receiver when gate is closed.
The round part of both the ring handle and ring latch handle is known as the
Tools required to fit the ring gate latch to a wooden gate
The following tools will be needed to fit the ring gate latch to a wooden
gate: Drill 16mm drill bit with spur(for drilling spindle) 3 or 4mm drill bit
(for pre-drilling screw holes) Hacksaw (if needed for cutting spindle bar)
Pencil Rule or tape measure
Which side of the gate does the latch part go on?
The ring latch handle (Part A) can be fitted to the front or rear of the
gates, however, where you fit it to on YOUR gates depends on which way your
If you’re facing your gates and looking at the front face of the gates and the
gate opens away from you (opens in), then the Ringlatch handle (A) must fit on
the rear of the gate. And likewise, if the gate opens towards you (when standing
looking at the front face of the gate) then the ringlatch handle fits on the
front of the gate. The ringlatch can be fitted to either a single gate or pair
of gates that open in both directions (i.e. hung with fieldgate or wraparound hinges) – another words gates that can be opened towards you and away from you.
However, you will stop the gate with the ring latch handle attached from
swinging in both directions.
How to fit the ring gate latch
The ringlatch will need to be fitted to one of the gate rails; if the rails of
the gates are either too high up or too low down, then you will need to fit a
latch block to the rear of the gates at the height required. If fitting to a pair of gates, then fit the ringlatch handle to the gate that will open first (the active
To start with, fit the ringlatch handle (A)
first as this is the main part of the latch. The first part of fitting this is
to mark and then drill the hole through the gate for the spindle bar; but
first, we need to position the ring gate latch handle where we intend to fix
it upon the gate. Place the ringlatch handle on the gate rail where you intend
to fit it, making sure you allow around 2″ (approx 50mm) of the latch bar
protruding from the gate you are fixing it to. In height, centre it upon the
rail; this is not really necessary, but it looks better!
The overlap of the latch bar (from the gate) is being allowed so there is enough
of the latch bar to locate itself in the receiver (Shown as E, above). This 50mm
overlap allows for the 10mm gap between the two gates I’m fitting the ringlatch
to in the video, thus giving me a 40mm overlap of latch onto the other gate;
this measurement would still apply if I was fitting the ringlatch onto a single
gate with the receiver being fitted to a post. The only thing to bear in mind
being if your post that the receiver is being fitted to is less then 40mm thick,
then you will have to adjust this measurement or the latch may foul depending on
your situation!). Please click to enlarge either of the images below.
The first thing we need to do before screwing the ring latch handle to the gate is to drill out for the spindle bar. An easy way of marking the
position of centre line for the spindle is to mark all four of the fixing holes
for the latch handle onto the gate, then using a rule or straight edge, join the
lines up diagonally as shown in the picture on the right.
Use a drill bit a couple of millimetres wider than that of the spindle (in our case, the spindle is 10mm wide so we’ll be using a 16mm drill bit).
Again, as with drilling our for the hinge bolts, do not drill right the way
through the gate from one side (you’ll burst out the opposite side with your
drill bit and risk splitting the face of the gate).
Using a drill bit with a spur, drill through the gate until the spur protrudes
through the opposite side of the gate, reverse the drill and go to other side
of the gate. Line the spur of the drill bit up with the small hole in the gate
and drill through. Drill through the gate until the spur (pointy bit) of the
drill bit starts to stick out on the other side of the gate
Click to enlarge image
Go to the other side of the gate, put the spur of your drill
bit into the small hole you’ve just made (when drilling from the other side of
the gate) and drill through. You should now have a hole right the way through
the gate (argh, I hear you cry!). Slot the spindle bar into the ringlatch handle and reposition
the ringlatch handle on the gate rail, with the spindle bar going through the
Pre-drill the four screw holes into the gate through the rose
(round bit) of the ringlatch; use a 3 or 4mm drill bit. Screw the ringlatch handle to the gate using the pre-drilled
holes you’ve just made (don’t worry about filling all the screw holes up at this
stage, just do at least two now for now and you can the rest later once you know
everything is correctly placed).
Get the receiver (Part E) ready. Close the gate over if it’s
not already and sit the latch bar into the receiver. The receiver will fit on
to the other gate. Lift the latch bar so the bottom edge is approximately
horizontal. Mark the position of the two holes with a pencil and then
pre-drill them both.
We’ll now fix the keep; this fits to the same gate that the
ring latch handle is fitted to. Its purpose is to make sure the latch bar
doesn’t drop too low down, which in turn would stop the latch from closing
properly and from sitting in the receiver. This sounds a lot more awkward than
it is, so please bear with me!
You need to position the keep so that the latch bar sits within in it
,touching the bottom, and that when the gate closes, the bar lifts up when it
hits the receiver and drops into place; it’s a bit of trial and error doing
this! Slide the latch bar into the keep and position the keep on the gate so
the latch bar is horizontal. Now keeping the keep in position, slowly close
the gate; if the latch bar rises and drops into the receiver when the gate is
closed then the keep is positioned perfectly, if not, then lift the keep up
slightly and repeat the process until the latch bar rises and sits in the
Mark out and pre-drill the two screw holes for the keep onto
the gate and screw it up. Double check that the latch bar still lifts up and
drops into the receiver when they make contact with each other. If so, then
we’re good to fit the ring handle! If not, then adjust as necessary. We’re going to fix the ring handle onto the other side of the
gate now, however, depending on the thickness of your gate and the length of the
spindle bar we may need to make a cut in the spindle bar. Place the ring handle
over the spindle into position. Ring handle sits against face of gate If the ring handle sits nicely on the face of the gate, then nothing needs
cutting; simply pre-drill the four screw holes through the rose of the handle
into the gate and screw up; job done. Just check it turns easily and lifts the
latch bar up. The ring handle doesn’t sit against the face of the gate
You’ll need to cut the spindle bar! Again, we’ve an easy way of knowing how
much to cut off the spindle bar. With the ring handle still in position, hold
it parallel to the face of the gate. Measure the distance from the face of the
gate to the back edge of the rose (round bit of the ring handle); this gives
you the measurement that needs cutting from the spindle so the ring handle
fits onto the gate.
Remove the ring handle and the spindle bar from the gate. Mark out the
measurement you’ve just taken (distance from face of gate to rear face of ring
handle rose) onto the spindle bar. Cut with a hacksaw; if you’ve not got a vice
handy to hold the bar whilst you cut it, grab a pair of pliers or pincers and
hold it with these. Your ringlatch is now fitted!
The ring gate latch is pretty easy to fit, but once fitted, you may run into a
couple of problems:
Handles don’t turn
If either (or both!) the ring handle and ring latch handle are difficult (or
impossible) to turn, then in all likelihood, the spindle bar that goes through
the gate is too long and when you have screwed the ring handle (the last part)
on it has tightened the whole latch up. Firstly, test this by unscrewing the
ring handle from the gate, but don’t remove the handle from where it is
sitting. If it now moves freely, then the bar is too long; remove the handle
and spindle from the gate and give the end of the spindle bar a filing down,
then re-fit and see if the problem has gone; if not, repeat till it works.
File the spindle bar down to reduce the length
If it is still very difficult to turn, then it’s not the spindle bar being too
long; try applying some WD40 (or similar) to all the moving parts and try again.
The handles turn, but the latch bar doesn’t lift
If you turn the RING HANDLE and the latch bar on the other side of the wooden
gates doesn’t lift, then the spindle bar has been cut too short.
Fear not we can fix that with a great little cheat (keep this to yourself! 🙂
). Remove both the ring handle and spindle bar from the gates. Grab a piece of
card, (something like an old screw box is great for this) and tear a piece of
long and wide enough to wrap around one end of the spindle bar. Slot the
spindle bar back into the ring handle; you may have to compress the card a bit
for this, or even reduce the amount of card to get the bar back into the
handle. Slot the bar (with the ring handle attached) back through the gate so
that it locates into the ring latch handle.
Please click to enlarge either of the images below
Try turning the ring handle and the latch bar should now lift up! If it all
works, then the job is done and you’ve fitted your ring gate latch! More gate fitting guides
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