Quality Wooden Gates Built exactly to your requirements
All of our wooden gates and side-hung garage doors are available made to the sizes you require, in both height and widths, in Hardwood (Meranti, Idigbo and European Oak), Accoya (Modified Softwood) and Softwood (Unsorted Scandinavian Redwood) unless stated otherwise.
We use traditional construction methods to ensure our gates have a long life – you don’t get this level of quality in ‘off the shelf’ mass produced gates. The fact that we are British Woodworking Federation approved joiners speaks for itself.
What kind of wooden gates are you looking for?
We’ve split our timber gates into four categories, these can be found below. Click on the relevant image below for more gates within each category.
We deliver to both the UK mainland & offshore
Quality you don’t see in ‘off the shelf’ gates
“I received my gate yesterday and I am delighted with it. It is a thing of beauty and exactly what I wanted! Thank you so much for all your assistance and advice.
I will recommend you to all my friends, they will be green with envy when they see the gate. It is the best gate in Glenrothes – might even be the best gate in Scotland!”
Built to-last with traditional methods
All our gates are based on traditional, proven through the years, through-wedged morticed and tenon jointed frame giving strength and rigidity.
What we will not do is dowel joint our gates, see below:
If your gates are not based on a through wedged morticed and tenon jointed frame then they will not last!
British Woodworking Federation Assured
It’s easy for people to say they make the finest quality gates, but then they don’t back it up with anything!
We prefer to let the fact that we are British Woodworking federation approved Joiners speak for itself.
Read more on the BWF Code of Conduct here
Measuring up for gates?
Not sure where to start? We’ve got it covered in our comprehensive measuring up guide; so whether you intend to fit your gates with posts between stone pillars or are trying to use existing hinge fixings, you can find out how to measure up for gates!
Our gates, the way YOU want them
Seen a gate you like but it’s not quite how you want it? Every gate can be customised to your exact requirements, for some ideas of what you can do please see our customise our gates section. Our gates can also be supplied double sided, in a choice of open boarded or close boarded; put simply, you can have them how you want them!
Looking to automate your gates? All of our gates can be made suitable for automation.
How we make our gates.
Being BWF code of conduct assured, put your mind at ease knowing we follow all best practices when making your gates.
Through-wedged, morticed and tenon jointed gates.
All of our wooden gates are based on an EX 3″ / 75mm (once machined finishing at approx 2 3/4″ / 69mm) traditional through wedged morticed and tenon jointed frame for strength and rigidity (See also To make a secure joint, glue should be used with wedges).
We prefer to use square timber in the framework of the gates, as this minimises any cupping that is more prevalent in rectangular timber sections, such as 4″ x 2″ (100mm x 50mm).
Once the timber is cut and planed, the mortices and tenons are cut along with the mouldings for the rails (all horizontal rails of our wooden gates feature mouldings to allow moisture to run off, lessening the build up of any water) and heads (top rails).
Our wooden gates are often imitated, but never bettered!
The gates are then ready to be put together. Boat building glue is applied to the tenons and the tenon is then slotted into the mortice, the joints are cramped up and wedges are driven in either side of the tenon. The gates are then left until the glue has dried. Once dry, all wedges are cut flush to the framework of the gates and we can begin infilling the wooden gates with either T&G boarding or infill boarding (for an open boarded gate).
All boarding is glued and jointed into the stiles (vertical uprights) and heads (top rails) of the gates, not left to sit in open rebates; this give better protection to the end grain of the boards from the elements and also allows for any movement in the boarding.
In the event of us manufacturing gates with solid bottom rails (normally for below ground automation), then again, the boarding is glued and jointed into this rail as well.
Once boarded, diagonal-bracing is fitted to the rear of the gates between the rails, again this is glued and jointed into the rail to add yet more strength to the gate and to evenly distribute the weight of the wooden gates when hung.
All that is left to do is finish-sand the gates and they are then ready for collection or delivery and pride of place in your driveway / pathway!
Anatomy of a wooden gate
Or know your gate parts!
2 – Head/top rail
3 – Transom/ solid middle rail
4 – Rails/hidden rails/barefaced rails
5 – T&G boarding/Tongue and groove boarding (replaced with infill in an open boarded gate)
6 – Mullions/Infill
7 – Joggles (Sometimes incorrectly known as Horns)
8 – Diagonal bracing
Timber gates to avoid
If I was to mention one type of gate to avoid, if talking about mortice and tenon jointed gates, then it would be gates based on a stub tenoned joint frame; this basically means the tenon does not go right the way through the stile of the gates. This gives minimal surface area for glue and is actually a cabinet makers’ joint; usually found on things like tables and chairs, it is not a joint for external doors and gates. Quite often, these joints are also secured with dowels through the face of the gates; again these should be avoided, as you’ll end up with end grain showing on the end of the dowels. End grain is notorious for soaking up water (it’s the most vulnerable part of any timber product) and in the worst case scenario, you’ll find the end grain of the dowels soaking up water and drawing it in to where you do not need it the most – the joints of the gates.
If you’re looking to get some timber gates and not sure where to start, then check out our wooden gate buying guide and make sure you buy the gate you want once, rather than get a poorly constructed gate, which you end up replacing.
Softwood, modified softwood or hardwood gates
We manufacture our gates, large or small, in five main timbers, Unsorted Scandinavian Redwood (Softwood), Accoya (Modified Softwood), Prime European Oak, Meranti and Idigbo (all Hardwoods) and all are made exactly the same way, whether you choose a Hardwood gate or a Softwood gate. For more information on the differences between Softwood gates and Hardwood gates, and for pictures of the timbers we use in the manufacture of our gates, please see our softwood and hardwood timber samples page.
Fitting timber gates: A step-by-step guide to installing your gates
You may chose to fit your wooden gates yourself and will likely be wondering where exactly to start in the task of fitting your new wooden gates. We have complied several tips to show you how to hang your gates (some with video) for you below. If you are unsure of fitting the gates yourself, then seek professional help – a local qualified Carpenter or Joiner will have no problems in installing your gates for you with the minimum of fuss. What we have tried to do is show you the easiest way of installing the gates with the minimum of experience, no one way of gate fitting is incorrect, providing the end result is what is desired. Before you do charge off to get your gates hanging, be sure to get a coat of your chosen paint or stain on them as protection; you can read more info on what we recommend to paint or stain your wooden gates here.
Fitting gate posts
In almost all cases, you will be hanging your wooden gates within some kind of gate posts, the type of post required varies on your situation.The two types of posts are either fixing stiles (for fixing to a wall or other structure) or posts for sinking into the ground.
How to fit gate posts to a wall.
For fixing to a wall or other structure (usually in the same material as your wooden gates), the easiest gate post to fix and also the most economical to purchase.
More on fitting gate posts to a wall
How to fit gate posts in the ground
For when there are no walls or structures present, choose either Sawn green oak posts or tanalised Softwood posts (you can even opt for steel posts as well), slightly more difficult to fit as digging and concreting in is also required.
More on sinking gate posts into the ground
Fitting the gate hinges
We recommend and supply band and gudgeon hinges (also known as hook and pin, or hook and band hinges) with all our gates; if you prefer, we can supply adjustable hooks and bands upon request. They are simple enough to fit and the most difficult part is lifting and positioning the gates prior to fitting the hinges to the posts. We do not recommend that you use butt hinges to hang your gates, they are not made for externally hung gates or doors!
Rather than overload you with information, we’ve split this section into two parts:
Don’t worry about positioning the gates within the opening yet, concentrate first on fixing the hinges to the gates.
How to hang your gates
Once the hinges are fixed to the gates, then you can move on to positioning them within your opening and hanging them.
Read more on hanging your timber gates here
Fitting a ring gate latch?
This is easy enough, but we’ve a video how to also with top tips.
Along with a trouble shooting guide, if you have problems getting the gate ring latch to work.
Read more at How to fit a ring latch
Fitting a padbolt to a gate?
Fitting a padbolt to a timber gate is simple enough, we run you through the process in our guide to fitting a padbolt.
Read more at How to fit a padbolt to a timber gate