How to fit a long throw gate lock
Long throw gate locks are becoming more popular, they are in truth fairly easy
to fit your most difficult task is marking he hole for the cylinder of the lock
– get this right and it’s a doddle! Here we show you how to fit a long throw
gate lock. Note:
This guide refers to the Perrys version of the long throw
gate locks, not the Cays version – although similar they do differ slightly so
beware. However we have included the measurements required for fitting the
Gatemate versions of the long throw locks as well.
Double locking? Single locking?! 50mm or 70mm?!
There are two main types of the Perrys long throw locks, the ‘key lockable from
both sides version’ (aka Double locking version) which as its name implies can
be opened from either side with a key and the more economical ‘Key lockable with
spring latch to the rear’ (aka Perrys single locking long throw locks
or lock latch version) which opens by way of a latch on the rear and a key on
Rear of the double locking (key lockable from both sides) version of the
long throw gate lock
Rear of the lock/latch version of the long throw gate lock
Both are divided further into two types, for gates or doors upto 50mm thick and
for gates or doors upto 70mm thick, but we will ignore this for the time being
as fitting any of the Perrys long throw gate locks is exactly the same (If
fitting the Gatemate versions then it does differ from the Perrys locks and also
between the different versions of the Gatemate locks!
The various parts of a long throw gate lock
The parts are basically the same between the two versions of the locks and are
not much different between a Perrys and Gatemate lock
A – Main body of lock (Differs between the two versions) B – Receiver/Keep C –
Escutcheon (this can be replaced with optional handles) D – Screws (for fixing
both main body of lock and receiver to the gate E – Keys F – Instructions (A
bit vague really, hence the guide – do we look after you or what?!)
Tools required to fit the long throw gate lock
You will need the following tools to fit the Gatemate lock to the gates
Cordless drill/driver, 3mm drill bit, 2mm drill bit, *28mm Spade bit / Flat
bit, Phillips driver bit, Small slotted screwdriver, Square, Tape measure,
*The actual Perrys (and Gatemate come to that) lock instructions refer to a 26mm
spade bit/flat bit, however Perrys (and Gatemate) themselves actually sell a
28mm spade bit / flat bit for the locks. either can be used but the 28mm bit
gives a bit more room to slide the barrel of the lock through the gate. The
Perrys lock attaches to the gate using four screws, however before we can fit
the lock we need to drill out for the barrel of the lock – to do this we first
need to position the lock where we want it.
Where to position the long throw gate lock?
A word of warning before you start, there are videos around on the internet
showing the locks fitted to gates with morticed and tenon jointed frames in
the position where a horizontal rail meets a vertical member (the stile – the
outer framework of the gates), if you’ve seen any of these videos then
disregard them as they are wrong.
If you fit the lock over a mortice a tenon joint then you will weaken the
If you do fit the lock over the mortice and tenon joint then you are
undermining the joint, worse case scenario is the joint will fail as you’ve
drilled a 26mm or 28mm diameter hole right the way through the joint – as an
example of what I mean go and have a look at your front door (if you’ve a
wooden one) and look for the position of either a mortice lock or Yale type
cylinder lock, they are always fitted away from the mortice and tenon joint.
The tenon is reduced in size due to the hole being drilled through it – this
weakens the joint.
Our gates are based on a wedged morticed and tenon joint and fitting the locks
over this joint is bad enough, however the main culprits of showing the locks
fitted over a mortice and tenon joint actually use ‘dowelled morticed and tenon
joints’ (which are bad enough in their own right) but in most cases if you were
drilling out over the joint for the lock then you would be drilling out the very
thing that (the dowel or pin as it actually should be known) that is meant to be
holding the joint together (and with a dowel it’s debatable whether it actually
holds the joint together that well anyway but rant over 🙂 )
Fitting the Perrys long throw gate lock
To fit the long throw lock, we work from the rear of the gate
as that is where the lock fits and the main thing to remember is to keep the
cam holes (on the underside of the locking bar) facing downwards to avoid
water getting into the lock.
Make sure these cam holes in the underside of the locking bar face down
towards the ground!
To start with we need to decide on the position of the lock, Finally we then mark a vertical line
so mark on the gate the centre line where you want the lock to sit and then
square this line horizontally across the gate stile (vertical upright). The next task is to mark the position of the hole
the cylinder of the lock – this is the same whether you are using a 50mm or
70mm Perrys double locking long throw lock
or the Perrys single locking version. We now need to mark a second line
16mm below and parallel to
the first centre line.
58mm in from the edge of
the gate (this gives you a 5mm space between the edge of the gate and body of
the lock once fitted. if you want to increase this distance then just increase
the 58mm measurement by what you require). You can then skip the next section
that is specifically for the Gatemate versions of the long throw gate locks.
Marking the hole position for a Gatemate long throw lock
Unlike the Perrys version of the long throw gate locks, the position of the
barrel does vary on the Gatemate versions and does depend on whether you are
using a double locking or single locking lock. To start with, as for the Perrys
lock we mark a horizontal centre line where you want the lock to sit, this is
the same for the double locking and single locking versions but after this it
varies between the two locks –
Double locking versions To mark the position of the hole for a Gatemate double locking long throw gate
lock we now need to mark a second line underneath the centre line (we’ve just
marked) 15mm below the first line – once you’ve done this square the line
across. Next, on this second line we now mark a line 58mm in from the edge of
the gate. Where these two lines intersect is the centre line of the lock
barrel and where you need to drill.
Single locking/spring latch version To mark the position of the hole for a single locking Gatemate lock/latch long
throw gate lock (key locking from the rear only) we now need to mark a second
line underneath the centre line (we’ve just marked) 15mm below the first line
– once you’ve done this square the line across. Next, on this second line we
now mark a line 50mm in from the edge of the gate. Where these two lines
intersect is the centre line of the lock barrel.
For all versions of the long throw gate locks
This applies to all versions of the long throw gate locks –
Once you’ve marked the position of the centre line of the
lock barrel, using your 26mm or 28mm spade bit/flat bit drill through the gate
until the spur (point) of the drill bit just starts to protrude through the
front of the gate.
Once the spur appears, go to the front of the gate, line your
drill bit up with the small hole the spur has created and complete the hole
(don’t drill right the way through the gate, from one side only – you’ll split
timber as the drill bit bursts out). * It’s always worth getting at
least one coat of your chosen
paint or stain in this cylinder hole prior to securing the lock as if water does
gain access between the lock and timber you’ve no protection otherwise!
With the hole drilled out for the barrel of the lock, from
the rear of the gate place the lock into position. When it’s sitting on the
gate (with the barrel through the hole), line the lock up parallel with the
rail of the gate (use a square if you like to do this). Grab your cordless drill with a 3mm drill bit and pre-drill
the four holes on the rear of the lock into the gate. You can either mark the
holes with a pencil (then remove the lock) or drill the holes with the lock
present if you’re careful. Once you’ve drilled the holes insert the screws to
secure the lock to the rear of the gate.
Fitting the long throw lock receiver
We next have to attach the receiver for the lock – If fitting the lock to a single pedestrian gate, then the receiver fits to the
gate post. If fitting the lock onto a pair of gates, then the receiver
fits onto the secondary gate (i.e. gate that opens second in the pair). To fit the receiver, make sure the lock is in the
closed/locked position and sit the receiver over the locking bar and centre it
(there is a fair bit of extra room in the receiver) and also parallel it with
the gate or post. Pre-drill with a 3mm drill bit
for each of the four holes and
then secure the receiver to the gate or post using the screws supplied.
Fitting the long throw lock escutcheon From the front of the gate you’ve an escutcheon to fit
sits over the lock barrel and attaches with three brass screws – pre-drill for
these using a 2mm drill bit. again either mark out the holes and remove the
escutcheon to pre-drill or keep the escutcheon in place and carefully drill
through the holes. Once you’ve done this insert the screws and using a slotted
screwdriver secure the escutcheon.
Long throw lock handles – optional extras
As an optional extra you’ve a choice of adding a handle in place of an
escutcheon (these do not come with the locks as standard but are available as
an optional extra). These fit to the front of the gate, over the lock barrel
and once the lock has been fitted the handle is fitted (the escutcheon is not
needed) by way of three screws. To fit the handle, simply place the handle
over the lock barrel and align so it is sitting parallel to the stile of the
gate and pre-drill all holes using a 3mm drill bit. Then secure to the gate
using the screws.
More tips: > Wooden gate fitting guide
> Locks for gates and garage doors: a guide