Gate Locks for Wooden Gates & Garage Doors: A Guide
There’s quite a choice of locks for wooden gates and side hinged wooden garage doors, ranging from the simple-to-fit to locks that are harder to fit (but more
secure). In this guide, we round up the best of those available and give you the
pros and cons of each! Use the table of contents below to skip to the
information you need:
You’ve probably seen these around and didn’t know what they were called as
they are very common on short front pedestrian access gates. The lockable part
is more of an afterthought as the little receiver that automatically drops
down when the gate is closed (hence the name!), has a hole through it that
allows a padlock to be put through it to prevent opening. Not all auto gate
catches lock though, so double check what you are buying – usually those
described as ‘light duty’ will not allow the use of a padlock!
pros:
Very inexpensive
Very easy to fit, usually 6 or so screws and you’re done!
The Brenton Padbolt, more commonly known as simply a padbolt, is probably the
simplest lock to fit to a gate. No real challenges should present themselves as
it simply fits to the front or rear face of the gate and attaches using a
combination of screws and bolts
The padbolt locks using a padlock, which you’ll have to buy separately, and
the main downside is you can only lock or unlock it from the side of the gate
to which it is fitted, unless you fit it very near the top of a gate and can
reach over to use the thing!
A Padbolt or Brenton Padbolt is the easiest gate or door lock to fit
As secure, if not more secure, than a long throw gate lock
Can be fitted to all types of gates (i.e. ledged and braced gates, framed
ledged and braced gates). See our guide on How to fit a padbolt to a wooden gate.
Padbolt cons:
Can only really be used from the side of the gate it is fitted to
Not the most secure
Rim Locks
A rimlock is really a very simple lock for a gate or door, so called because
it sits on the rim (edge) of a gate or door. Commonly, it is found on the
inside of shed doors and on ledged and braced gates; these are not really the
most secure as they are really a bit flimsy, weak and not all that secure, as
in most cases, if you could get enough leverage to pull the gate open, then
the lock bolt can actually snap. Rimlocks come in two varieties: you’ve the
simple lock (pictured right) on its own (opened from either side of the gate
with a key) or a lock and latch version, which once unlocked, you have to
twist the handles to open – imagine a poorer version of a sashlock and you get
the picture!
A simple version of a Rimlock, without a latch
Rimlock pros:
Simple to fit
Inexpensive compared to other locks
Can be operated from either side of the gates
Can be fitted on a ledged and braced gate or as a lock for a fence type
gate
Rimlock cons:
Not the most secure
Can be cheap and nasty!
Not really suitable for a framed, ledged and braced gate
Nightlatches
Traditionally, these were known as rim locks, though they shouldn’t be confused
with the modern day rimlock mentioned above as a Nightlatch lock (more commonly
referred to as a ‘Yale lock’, though other brands are available!) is a lot more
secure.
I, personally, wouldn’t refer to a Nightlatch as a gate lock but I’ve
mentioned it here as we get lots of requests for ‘Yale type locks for gates’.
A Nightlatch is fitted to an external door, on the inside face. On the inside
face of the lock, you have a little lever handle and usually a snib (this is
used to either keep the lock from engaging or to prevent anyone with a key
opening the door) now this side is the internal side of the lock and not
suitable for being exposed to whatever this great British climate of ours can
throw at it and the lock won’t weather at all well.
A Nightlatch, more commonly referred to as a Yale lock (other makes are
available!)
Nightlatch pros (as a gate lock):
Erm, nothing really as it’s not a gate lock!
Nightlatch cons (as a gate lock):
Not a gate lock!
Not the most secure lock, for example, on a front or back door of your home
for insurance purposes, even if you’ve got a Nightlatch fitted, then most
insurance companies insist on a 5 Lever Insurance Deadlock being fitted as
well.
Long Throw Gate Locks
Perrys, Cays and Gatemate produce two versions (well, four if you include the
different sizing options of 50mm and 70mm versions of the locks!) of a long
throw gate lock; the ‘throw’ is by how much the locking bar protrudes from the
body of the lock; a double-locking option (key lockable from both sides) and a
single-locking option (with a simple spring latch on the rear of the lock and
a keyhole on the front). From the front of the gates or doors, all that you’ll
see of the long throw lock is the cylinder of the lock protruding through the
face of the gates/doors
Long throw gate lock front view
Looking for a single locking Perrys gate or door lock? Look no further as you can find them within our shop here!
Despite its name, the long throw gate lock can also be fitted to a garage door;
simply select the correct size option; for doors or gates up to 50mm, then
select the 50mm lock option and for doors or gates up to 70mm thick, then select
the 70mm lock option (the size options refer to the length of the cylinder that
fits through the doors or gates). The double-locking long throw gate lock has
the advantage over the padbolt as it can be locked and unlocked from either side
of the gate, so no more trying to reach over the gate to unlock the thing;
however, in our opinion, assuming somebody has access to the rear of the gate or
door then it is not quite as secure as a correctly fitted padbolt (with padlock added)- and at least a padbolt is supplied with bolts to secure
it through the gate rather than just screws that the long throw gate locks come
with, though there is nothing stopping you from adding some of your own bolts,
however.
You can get your Perrys double locking long throw gate locks in our shop
here!
Rear view of the double locking long throw gate lock (key operated each
side)
Rear of the long throw gate lock with spring latch. Key operation from the
front only
Long throw gate locks can be found under Locks, Bolts & Latches in our Ironmongery Shop. Fitting is simple enough as there is a handy guide supplied with all the
locks; the main part of fitting involves drilling a 28mm hole (instructions that
are supplied with the long throw locks mention a 26mm hole, however both Perrys
and Gatemate supply 28mm spade bits specifically for these locks as a 26mm hole
is quite tight to get the barrel of the lock into) through the gate or door to
take the actual cylinder of the lock. Once this is done, the lock just actually
screws onto the rear of the gate and here, in our opinion, is what lets this
lock down, as anybody who wants to overcome the lock can simply screw it off; a
correctly fitted padbolt has two bolts that must be removed; again, these bolts
are simple enough to undo, however, it takes a bit more time to do this.
Longthrow gate lock pros:
Better looking than a padbolt (wolf whistle!)
Double-locking option gives the ability to unlock from either side of the
gate
Single locking option is handy if you don’t want the hassle of unlocking
(from the rear only) with a key
Cheaper than a mortice lock
Can be fitted to a gate or door
Longthrow gate lock cons:
Not really any more secure than a Brenton Padbolt
Far less secure than a mortice deadlock
More expensive than a Brenton Padbolt
Cannot be fitted anywhere on the gate or door (See below)
Mortice Deadlocks
If security is your thing, then a mortice deadlock is the way to go. You’ll see
these as being commonly 3 or 5 levers (the levers being part of the mechanism
within the lock, the more levers it has, the more secure it is). For insurance
purposes, at least a 5 lever lock is a must (hence the name 5 lever insurance
lock!). This doesn’t fit to the gate or door, it fits inside it, meaning it
cannot simply be unscrewed and removed; to get it out you’ve got to get the
doors open! A mortice deadlock gives you the ability to unlock or lock the
gates/doors from either side, as once fitted you’ve a keyhole on either side.
Also be aware, that as these sit within the door or gate, then there is a
minimum thickness of door which it can be securely fitted into, usually this
is 44mm but does vary from lock to lock. A good mortice deadlock will also
meet certain British Standards (look out for the Kitemark) as well as being CE
marked and, in some cases, will also be ‘Police Preferred, secured by design’.
The deadlocks we supply meet all three criteria.
More secure than any other gate lock on the market
Key lockable from both sides
Usually guaranteed
Available as a 5 lever insurance deadlock
Can be fitted to both gates and doors
Mortice deadlock cons:
Slightly more difficult to fit as you need to cut into the edge of the gate
Cannot be fitted to ledged and braced gates/doors
More expensive than a Brenton Padbolt and long throw gate lock
Cannot be fitted anywhere on the gate (see below)
Mortice Sashlocks
These are like a mortice deadlock in almost every way but with one exception;
a sashlock needs a pair of handles fitted to it. The sashlock gives you the
option of leaving the doors unlocked but still held closed by way of the latch
within the lock; you need to physically pull the handle down to release the
latch and open the door. Again, mortice sashlocks are usually 3 or 5 lever and
the more levers the lock has, the more secure it is; again, look for a lock
that is ‘Police Preferred, secured by design’, that has a British standard
kitemark and also CE markings.
More secure than any other gate/door lock on the market
Key-lockable from both sides
Has a latch as well as a lock
Usually guaranteed
Available as a 5 lever insurance deadlock
Can be fitted to doors
Mortice sashlock cons:
Won’t work on any gate where you have clearances (either between the two
gates or gate and post) of 10mm or over as usually the latch bolt only
has a 10mm throw (throw being how far the latch bolt protrudes).
Slightly more difficult to fit as you need to cut into the edge of the gate
Cannot be fitted to ledged and braced gates/doors
More expensive than a Brenton Padbolt and long throw gate lock
Cannot be fitted anywhere on the door (see below)
A pair of lever latch handles are required
Not really a gate lock
D&D Lokklatch Deluxe
The Lokklatch deluxe is a modern twist on the traditional auto gate catches.
Unlike the auto gate catches however this is key lockable and is available in
a hybrid of stainless steel and black polymer which gives a long lasting,
corrosion resistant latch.
pros:
Like the D&D Lokklatch deluxe, the Magnalatch is similar to the auto gate
catch in that as you gate is closed the latch pops out and engages. You can
then lock by way of a key hole in the side of the latch bar. There are two
versions of this, one is lockable and one isn’t so make sure you pick the
correct version!
pros:
Quick and easy to install
No unsightly fixings
No padlock required
Able to adjust position of lock both horizontally and vertically after
installation
Made from weather resistant stainless steel and moulded polymer
There are most cost effective solutions on the market
D&D Lokklatch Magnetic
The D&D Lokklatch magnetic appearance always reminds me of a caravan door
lock, as the name implies it is a lock and a latch with both being able to
operate from either side of the gates. It’s fairly easy to fit for anybody
with a basic grasp of DIY and once fitted it can be adjusted at a later date
if needed. You’ve also got a choice of different coloured trims allowing you
to ‘pimp up’ your lock, should you wish to!
pros:
It’s a latch as well as a lock
Nicer looking (if that’s your thing!) than most gate locks
Can be locked / unlocked from either side of the gate
Manufactured from corrosion resistant stainless steel and black polymer
Not technically a lock in itself but still lockable as the name implies is the
lockable dropbolt. This is ideal as a lock for driveway gates. Used in place of a standard non-locking dropbolt, the lockable version is
fitted on a pair of gates and locks one of the gates to the ground using a
padlock.
Lockable dropbolt pros:
Can be used alone, giving pedestrian access through a pair of gates (one gate can still be opened),
Can be combined with another lock such as a padbolt, long throw lock or
deadlock for more security
Simple to fit, though a lock block may have to be added to your gates
Fairly inexpensive to purchase
Available in a marine grade stainless steel and galvanised finishes
Can only be unlocked from the side of the gate it is fitted to
For more security, it needs combining with either a padbolt, long throw
gate lock or deadlock
Not available in a black or black on galv finish
D&D Lokkbolt Dropbolts
In essence a Lokkbolt dropbolt does the same job as a lockable dropbolt,
however they do differ slightly as you don’t need to add a padlock to them –
there is already a key lock built in. Available in both 18″ and 24″ lengths
and supplied keyed alike – one key can open multiple Lokkbolts. Being a hybrid
of stainless steel and moulded polymer, you will have no problems with
corrosion and it can be fitted to typically acidic timbers like Oak or Accoya
with no problems.
Lokkbolt dropbolt pros:
Like the lockable dropbolt, the D&D Lokkbolt can be used alone, giving
pedestrian access through a pair of gates (one gate can still be opened),
Can be combined with another lock such as a padbolt, long throw lock or
deadlock for more security
Simple to fit, though a lock block may have to be added to your gates
No need for a padlock as the lock is built into the Lokkbolt
Can be keyed alike, this gives you the one key to open multiple Lokkbolts
Can only be unlocked from the side of the gate it is fitted to
For more security, it needs combining with either a padbolt, long throw
gate lock or deadlock
As the lock is built into the lokkbolt, if you lose the keys then it
could be a nightmare from a security perspective
Not the cheapest option and a standard lockable dropbolt is far more
inexpensive.
Where can I fit a mortice sashlock/deadlock or long throw gate lock?
The longthrow locks (both versions) and deadlocks cannot be fitted anywhere on
the gates; on a framed ledged and braced gate, if you fit on a horizontal rail
(or near the horizontal rail for a deadlock), then you will undermine the joint
between the stile (vertical upright, main frame of gate) and horizontal rail, as
the majority of the joint is cut away to take the locks. To maintain the
integrity of the joint, it is always recommended that a lock block or dummy rail
is fitted to take the gate lock. Further reading – Secured by DesignLocks, Bolts & Latches in our Ironmongery Shop
Locks for Wooden Garage Doors
Locks for wooden garage doors
In the main the locks mentioned are all suitable for side hinged wooden garage doors, however as we are also asked about locking methods for other types of doors,
we have also briefly covered this at the very end of the post.
Hasp & staple
This is probably the cheapest method of locking your garage doors. Easy to fit
and either screws of better still bolts to the doors. You will need to add a
padlock and once unlocked and the lock removed there is nothing to stop the
door swinging open. If you do go down this route then don’t go for the wire
version of the hasp and staple as these are quite poorly made and not very
strong, instead go for the heavy pattern (heavy duty).
pros:
Very economical
Easy to fit
Hasp and staple, a very basic method of locking
cons:
Not the most secure garage door lock
Needs a padlock
Can only be operated from the side of the doors it is fitted to
Once unlocked and the padlock removed, no way of stopping your door swinging
open
Brenton Padbolt
We covered this in our gate locks section as it can be used on both. An
economical, if unsightly option and better than a hasp and staple as you can
stop the doors swinging open when no lock is present as it features a shoot
bolt. You will need to add a padlock to secure the padbolt and it can only be
operated from the side of the doors it is fitted to.
pros:
Can only be operated from the side of the doors it is fitted to
Swivelling locking bar
Swivelling locking bars come in various lengths and are primarily used for
securing double doors. It’s similar to a hasp and staple but more heavy duty
and the hasp once hinged away from the staple swivels down. Once fitted and in
the locked position all fixings are hidden giving a bit more security than a
padbolt. Like a hasp and staple it does need a padlock and once this lock is
removed the doors can swing open.
pros:
Heavy duty
Once the locking bar is locked up all fixings are hidden
Quite industrial looking, so ok for workshop doors but not new shiny
garage doors
Shed locking bar
Can be used on any outward opening door, so long as it is long enough to fit
to the door frame on either side. A bracket is fitted to the door frame on
either side of the door, this then lets you fit a padlock-able bar through the
brackets and lock it in place.
pros:
Quite easy to fit
A shed locking bar can be used on most outward opening doors – not just
sheds
Not the quickest method to use each time you want to lock the doors
Awkward and sometimes impossible to use on door frames that are set back
from the face of the brickwork.
Requires a padlock
Nightlatches
Quite commonly known as ‘Yale locks’ (though other brands are available or
cylinder locks, these can be used on some garage doors. However if you’ve
double doors that have rebated meeting stiles and open out then you will not
get it to work without a bit of bodging about as it’s not made for these
doors!
pros:
Easy to fit
A Nightlatch otherwise known as a Yale or cylinder lock
Cannot adequately be fitted to outward opening doors with rebated meeting
stiles
Should be combined with a more secure lock such as a mortice lock for
improved security
Long throw gate locks
Despite it’s name it can be used on garage doors, you’ve a choice of 50mm or
70mm versions which relate to how thick the doors are – for example on doors
up to 50mm thick you would use the 50mm versions and then a further choice of
double locking (key lockable/un-lockable from either side) or single locking
(key locking/unlocking from the front with a thumb latch to unlock on the
rear).
pros:
More economical than a mortice lock and easier to fit
More secure than a padbolt and no padlock to lose
Rear view of the double locking long throw lock, on the single locking
version you’ll see a thumb latch instead of a keyhole! Both versions are
lockable/unlockable from the front with a key
Not as secure as a mortice lock as fits to the door rather than inside
it
Mortice Deadlocks
Again these were mentioned on the gate locks section. If looking for a mortice
lock then go for a 5 Lever insurance lock, this is usually stipulated by your
insurance policy for any external doors, hence the name ‘insurance lock’.
Anything less than the 5 lever option is less secure. A mortice deadlock
allows for the lock to be opened from either side of the doors, being a
deadlock however once the lock is unlocked there is nothing to stop the doors
from being pushed or blown open as it doesn’t have a latch – just a lock If
buying a deadlock then it’s worth checking whether your doors have rebated
meeting stiles or not (doors overlap when closed), if so then you will need to
also purchase a matching rebate kit as otherwise you will not be able to fit
the lock. If buying a deadlock then look for one that meets British Standards
and is also CE Marked.
pros:
A very secure garage door lock
Key lockable from either side
Available as a 5 lever insurance lock to keep your insurance company
happy!
Apart from an escutcheon (keyhole surround), not much visible on the doors
as the locks fits within the door
If opting for a deadlock then get the 5 Lever version as more secure
A rebate kit must be used on doors with rebated meeting stiles
As you will need to cut out the door to take the lock it may be a job
for a pro!
Mortice Sashlocks
Sashlocks are similar to deadlocks in that they fit within the door and are
available in 3 or 5 lever versions (again 5 lever being an insurance lock).
Where they differ to deadlocks is as well as the deadlock bolt they also
feature a latch (and will require a pair of handles to work). The doors can be
left unlocked and the door won’t swing open in a breeze etc, as to open the
door you will have to physically pull the handle down to open the door. If
you’ve a wooden front door then in all likelihood you have a mortice sashlock
fitted. As with a deadlock they can be fitted to doors with rebated meeting
stiles, you’ll just need a matching rebate kit to be able to fit the lock.
pros:
A 5 lever insurance sashlock will more than likely satisfy your insurance
company (hence the name!)
Comprise a latch as well as a lock
Key lockable and openable from either side
Useful if you use your garage as a workshop or similar and are constantly
come and go out of the garage as you can leave the doors securely shut
without having to lock them
A mortice sashlock, requires a pair of lever lock handles to operate
Can be awkward to fit if you’ve never fitted one before
Unsuitable for ledged and braced doors, for best results needs fitting
to frame ledged and braced doors
Requires a pair of lever lock handles to operate
For use on pairs of doors with rebated meeting stiles then a rebate kit
must also be purchased
Hinge Bolts
Not technically a lock (but it’s my blog and I’ll write what I want!!) but
does add a bit more security to your doors. These sit within the doors on the
hinge side and the domed head protrudes out, as the doors are closed they
locate into a receiver in the door frame. Fitted in pairs, usually top and
bottom on each door they can be fitted on both inward and outward opening
doors.
pros:
Relatively inexpensive
Adds an extra layer of security to your doors
Resists hacksawing and attempts to remove the door from its frame
Not an lock and is used in conjunction with a decent lock
Lockable dropbolt
Again this was covered in our gate locks section but is worth a mention here.
Not really to be relied upon as the sole lock on your garage doors and should
be used in conjunction with some other form of lock. The Lockable dropbolt is
used in place of the standard dropbolt (on the bottom of the secondary door
that opens) and allows you to lock (with a padlock) the door to the floor.
pros:
Adds a bit more security to your doors
A good option if you want to securely lock one door shut whilst allowing
the master door to be unlocked for pedestrian access
A lockable dropbolt, should be used as added security and not the sole
locking method
Can only be opened from the side of the door it is fitted to
Van locks
Van locks, what the….?! Yes you’ve read it correctly, some makes of van locks
can be used on double doors. Personally I wouldn’t choose them myself for a
pair of garage doors on my house, but if you are using the doors as workshop
doors then it is an option for you just so long as the doors don’t have
rebated meeting stiles. Sort of a hasp and staple that is combined (and
usually supplied) with a heavy duty padlock. Bolts to the doors so fairly easy
to fit, personally I’d stick to a 5 lever insurance mortice lock.
pros:
Heavy duty lock usually supplied with a heavy duty padlock
Some van locks can be used on double doors, however not double doors with
rebated meeting stiles
Not suitable for doors with rebated meeting stiles
A bit expensive for what is in effect a heavy duty hasp and staple!
Not really a suitable locking method for side hinged garage doors (or double
doors)
We are asked a lot about the following locks, so although they are unsuitable
for double doors we thought we would add them here and talk a bit about them.
Garage door defender / Garage door protector kit
There is no doubt that this is a good lock for up and over doors, however it
will not work on side hinged/side opening doors. The way the garage door
defender / protector works is, you fit a plate (with a staple that takes a
lock built in) to the floor under the up and over door where the door would be
in the closed position, once fitted you close the door and attach the top
piece over this (which comprises a hasp) which also sits upon the bottom edge
of the closed door and attach a padlock.
pros:
None for side hinged doors!
Great for up and over doors!
Garage door defenders (or garage door protectors), cannot be used on side
hung garage doors
cons:
Not suitable for side hinged doors
T Handle garage door lock
These are another that we are asked about from time to time, if you’ve an up
and over door then they are probably familiar as they are used only on up and
over garage doors and not suitable for use on side hinged doors.
pros:
None for side hung doors
Great on up and over doors!
T handle garage door locks cannot be used on side hung garage doors!
Jon is a third-generation City and Guilds Advanced Craft joiner, carrying on a proud family tradition of woodworking expertise. As the owner of Inwood (Cymru) Ltd located in North Wales, Jon brings decades of experience and a deep-seated passion for the craft to every project he undertakes. Inwood is not only a reflection of Jon's commitment to exceptional craftsmanship but is also recognized and approved by the British Woodworking Federation Code of Conduct. With a keen eye for detail and a dedication to quality, Jon continues to uphold the highest standards in joinery work. Follow along as he shares insights, tips, and stories from his journey in woodworking on his blog.
The number oif different locks is bewildering Can you advise,?
My ledged and braced garden gate is very good quality and i am looking for a lock that be surface fitted and opened from the inside only. What do you suggest It is 2 3/4 inches thick
Probably something like a padbolt bolt with a padlock attached will do the job, economical and simple! There is not really a great deal on the market for being able to lock from just one side, everything is more tailored to being able to lock/unlock froom both sides.
2 thoughts on “Gate Locks for Wooden Gates & Garage Doors: a guide.”
The number oif different locks is bewildering Can you advise,?
My ledged and braced garden gate is very good quality and i am looking for a lock that be surface fitted and opened from the inside only. What do you suggest It is 2 3/4 inches thick
Probably something like a padbolt bolt with a padlock attached will do the job, economical and simple! There is not really a great deal on the market for being able to lock from just one side, everything is more tailored to being able to lock/unlock froom both sides.